Time has come to say good bye to the old "Ultimate Driving Machine". It proved too much hard work to sell so ended up being taken away for much less than it should. Gutted.
Showing posts with label E36. Show all posts
Showing posts with label E36. Show all posts
Replacement of ISCV breather pipe - NO DICE!
I ordered some silicone tubing to replace the old and worn breather hose.
I was hoping this would fix the whining engine noise. Unfortunately this was not the case and the wining still continues!
The rubber intake hose has a section where the breathers go to. This has cracked and had been fixed temporarily with some electricians tape. This will be next to be replaced as air could be getting into the engine and bypassing the MAF sensor.
As always I will keep you posted!
I was hoping this would fix the whining engine noise. Unfortunately this was not the case and the wining still continues!
The rubber intake hose has a section where the breathers go to. This has cracked and had been fixed temporarily with some electricians tape. This will be next to be replaced as air could be getting into the engine and bypassing the MAF sensor.
As always I will keep you posted!
Fixing the sagging headlining
Sagging Headliner- Over time, a common problem with the E36 is that the headlining material starts to sag and droop. This is due to the glue coming weak.
There are two options really. Replace the headliner with a new/second hand one, or repair/re-cover the old one.
Both processes require removal of the old headlining.
Quite a simple process if a little awkward.
1)Remove the passenger grab handles (two screws) take care not to damage the screw covers as this will look bad once re-fitted
2)Remove the sun visors (two screws each)if you have a visor light then unplug the wiring too
3)Remove the sun visor clips (two screws)
4) Remove the A,B and C pillar covers.
5) Remove the electric sunroof switch panel where applicable. Just slide down and remove wiring.
6)Remove the seal from the sunroof (aghhr aghhr)
7) Drop down the seals from the top of the doors.
This should leave the headliner free to drop down. Ensure you recline the seats and carefully remove via the front doors at an angle. It might be worth having a trusty assistant on hand as you don't want to bend it (unless you are binning it anyway, in which case see how many times you can fold it...)
If you are replacing with a new/second hand item then just reverse the removal process.
However if you are going to re-cover the old one you need to follow these steps:
1) Carefully remove all the old foam backing from the fibreglass shell of the headliner
2)Once all the foam/glue has been removed you can start to measure up the replacement material. It might be worth doing a few test pieces first to get used to the glue you are using.
3) Cover the headliner and material with the glue. Once it has started to get tacky you can apply to each other.
4)From the middle outwards remove any bumps and smooth out.
5) Once dried it is just a case of reversing the removal process.
It might be worth replacing the fabric on the A,B and C pillars too so they all match.
There are two options really. Replace the headliner with a new/second hand one, or repair/re-cover the old one.
Both processes require removal of the old headlining.
Quite a simple process if a little awkward.
1)Remove the passenger grab handles (two screws) take care not to damage the screw covers as this will look bad once re-fitted
2)Remove the sun visors (two screws each)if you have a visor light then unplug the wiring too
3)Remove the sun visor clips (two screws)
4) Remove the A,B and C pillar covers.
5) Remove the electric sunroof switch panel where applicable. Just slide down and remove wiring.
6)Remove the seal from the sunroof (aghhr aghhr)
7) Drop down the seals from the top of the doors.
This should leave the headliner free to drop down. Ensure you recline the seats and carefully remove via the front doors at an angle. It might be worth having a trusty assistant on hand as you don't want to bend it (unless you are binning it anyway, in which case see how many times you can fold it...)
If you are replacing with a new/second hand item then just reverse the removal process.
However if you are going to re-cover the old one you need to follow these steps:
1) Carefully remove all the old foam backing from the fibreglass shell of the headliner
2)Once all the foam/glue has been removed you can start to measure up the replacement material. It might be worth doing a few test pieces first to get used to the glue you are using.
3) Cover the headliner and material with the glue. Once it has started to get tacky you can apply to each other.
4)From the middle outwards remove any bumps and smooth out.
5) Once dried it is just a case of reversing the removal process.
It might be worth replacing the fabric on the A,B and C pillars too so they all match.
Broken brakes....
If ever there was an incident that proves the kiss of death was a scientific fact this would be it!
Wednesday night at a party we got talking about cars... I was saying how the BMW was running OK now after all the problems.
So on the Thursday morning I set off for work as normal. Drop off the wife at work and proceed to the park and ride. The steering started vibrating a little. This then turned into a very bad shaking. I pulled straight over to check it out thinking there was a flat, or the wheel was about to fall off!
A quick inspection showed no signs of a flat tyre. The wheels didn't wobble when moved by hand. However when I was down checking the near side wheel I could smell burning brakes. I touched the alloy, and sure enough, burnt my hand!
So it looks like a seized calliper then. The RAC came out and took a look, he said the wheel span freely so wasn't sure what it was all about. He recommended taking it to a local garage to put it on a brake test.
Long story short(er). It did look like a faulty caliper.
While inspecting this it appeared the discs (rotors) were not in good condition..
Very rusty and a large lip on there too.
So I decided to get the whole lot replaced. I'm glad I did as after looking at the discs that came off they were very shoddy indeed!
Can't fault the service at the garage at all. Didn't try to sell me having the discs and pads changed but showed me before hand. Also he took the car to have a wash and polish as it was really dirty due to the snow, grit and salt on the roads.
Very reasonable cost as well. It's a new outfit in an industrial unit, I never even knew existed!
The guy who runs it used to have a BMW E36 328 coupe so could advise on bits and peices too.
Lesson learned, don't tempt fate!!!
Wednesday night at a party we got talking about cars... I was saying how the BMW was running OK now after all the problems.
So on the Thursday morning I set off for work as normal. Drop off the wife at work and proceed to the park and ride. The steering started vibrating a little. This then turned into a very bad shaking. I pulled straight over to check it out thinking there was a flat, or the wheel was about to fall off!
A quick inspection showed no signs of a flat tyre. The wheels didn't wobble when moved by hand. However when I was down checking the near side wheel I could smell burning brakes. I touched the alloy, and sure enough, burnt my hand!
Ouch!
So it looks like a seized calliper then. The RAC came out and took a look, he said the wheel span freely so wasn't sure what it was all about. He recommended taking it to a local garage to put it on a brake test.
Long story short(er). It did look like a faulty caliper.
While inspecting this it appeared the discs (rotors) were not in good condition..
Very rusty and a large lip on there too.
So I decided to get the whole lot replaced. I'm glad I did as after looking at the discs that came off they were very shoddy indeed!
Can't fault the service at the garage at all. Didn't try to sell me having the discs and pads changed but showed me before hand. Also he took the car to have a wash and polish as it was really dirty due to the snow, grit and salt on the roads.
Very reasonable cost as well. It's a new outfit in an industrial unit, I never even knew existed!
The guy who runs it used to have a BMW E36 328 coupe so could advise on bits and peices too.
Lesson learned, don't tempt fate!!!
E36 BMW Common faults and fixes
This is a list of useful information which I have sourced either from the net or had experience of myself. Please refer back to the Haynes Manual before carrying anything out. Or take to your trusted garage. It is worth trying to get on side with a decent garage, this can mean better rates and sometimes free work on smaller issues. Always try to go to a garage based on a recommendation.
I will update with more information on a regular basis and link back to this thread.
I hope this is of use to you. If you have any common BMW E36 problems and solutions to add to the list please feel free to comment.
I will update with more information on a regular basis and link back to this thread.
Engine
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Engine Fan - These can shatter and cause major problems for the radiator, pulleys and the drive-belts. A common thing to do is to remove the engine fan and fit an after-market one in its place.
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Idler Pulley - Some of the M52 engines had the pulley installed incorrectly. This causes belt noise and excessive wear. If this occurs, remove and install correctly ASAP. Check the belt for wear as this may need to be replaced.
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Water Pump - Due to containing a plastic impeller, over time these become brittle and can fail. This can cause huge problems for the cooling system, i.e. plastic can get into the engine. Replacement ones are available with metal impellers. It's not a major task to replace and one worth doing! They can make a whining noise which can indicate it is on its way out.
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Idle Speed Control Valve - If you have a poor erratic idle this can be caused by the ISCV. Remove and clean using carb-cleaner. If the problem persists it could also be the oxygen sensor or maybe the VANOS unit. Apparently the erratic idle is common in the BMW Z3 as well.
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Brakes
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ABS Pump Relay - Prior to May 1996 the pump motor relay could become faulty which would switch on the ABS warning light on the dashboard.
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Rear Wheel Speed Sensors - These are known to have a bad connection where it is soldered. Check for a date code of "0801" or older. This will need replacing if it’s older.
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Steering
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Power Steering Hose - This can leak and cause total failure. If this happens you will notice a dramatic loss of power steering.
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Tie Rod Ends - If you experience a juddering under braking this could be the cause. Check the brake discs first, as this is a similar feeling. If the rod ends are worn, you will need to replace.
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Suspension
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Rear Shock Absorber Mount - Apparently this is a common fault. It can be identified by a clunking from the rear end when going over bumpy ground. If these are not replaced, the bolts can shear off from the mount. At worst they can seriously damage the area surrounding the mount on the turret. If you replace these items you can upgrade using the E46 mounts and Z3 reinforcement plates.
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Outer Ball Joints - A common solution when replacing these is to opt for the older E30 control arm. These are stronger than the E36 units which are known to be weaker.
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Inner Control Arm - The rear bushes are known to be weak spots. Replacing with a 1996 or newer item is a common fix.
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Electrics
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Coils - The older ones had Zundspule and Bemis units installed. When they fail they can cause major problems to the ECU. Check as to which ones you have installed. If they are the Zundspule or Bemis ones then replace straight away to a newer Bosh item.
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Connectors - A known problem is with the smaller sensor wires with 2 and 3 pin connectors. They have a seal which comes away allowing debris into the unit. This causes false reading and can give miss-leading error codes. Try to check these if you have any warning lights that come on. You can buy contact cleaner which will help to prevent this. It has been known for BMW dealers to replace them with gold plated units which help to give a true connection.
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Electric Windows - I have an issue when closing the window where it gets to the top and then opens again by about an inch. This is a result of the magnet coming out of position from the motor. It can be easily re-aligned. Other symptoms of this are for the windows to open and close in stages.
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Comfort Relay - If your windows or sunroof stop working check this first. There are a few guides online to replace this with ease.
Boot Wiring - For ages my boot light would not work. Upon inspection it was caused by bad wiring in the boot hinge area. The wires get flexed and over time can come in contact with each other. This can cause blown fuses and faulty operation of boot-end items such as my light.
I pulled back the covering and pulled out as much of the wire as possible. I cut off the bad sections and soldered in new wires. Then I covered with lots of heat-shrink tubing! Problem seems to be fixed now. So check yours too, it doesn't take long.
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Air Conditioning - A common problem is for a capacitor to fail in the control module. This stops the blower motor from working. This can be fixed without replacing the whole unit.
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Brake Light Switch - This is a common problem and is an easy fix.
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Alarm - Have you got a standard E36 alarm system? If the battery has run out in the remote, you will need to re-program the fob.
Follow these instructions to carry out the reprogramming.
1) Ensure all doors are closed as well as the bonnet and boot.
2) Sit in the drivers seat and close that door too.
3) Turn the ignition key to position 2, pause and return to the off position.
4) Carry this out 5 times in a row within 45 seconds
5) The alarm LED should light up to confirm the process has been successful
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Body / Interior
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Headlights - Dull headlight lenses are common over time. The lenses can be cleaned and improved using rubbing compound (similar to paint work)but you might just want to replace them, or why not upgrade to a paid with built in angel-eyes. Once restored or replaced they can be protected in a similar fashion to paint by using wax. On non EU models the lenses are glued on to the unit. If you are brave you can place in the oven to soften the glue. On EU models the lenses have clips that need to be released.
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Noises - The E36 over time starts to develop rattles and squeaks as do many cars. Get an assistant to pin point them when driving and then use foam padding or rubber grommets to eliminate unwanted noises.
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Trim - Due to the nature of plastic used in the car and being subject to varying temperatures, over time the trim clips become weak. This causes them to snap off when trying to remove them. There is no way to fix this, but be prepared to replace pieces if you remove them to fit entertainment / alarm units.
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Sagging Headliner- Over time, a common problem with the E36 is that the headlining material starts to sag and droop. This is due to the glue coming weak.
There are two options really. Replace the headliner with a new/second hand one, or repair/re-cover the old one. Guide can be found here
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I hope this is of use to you. If you have any common BMW E36 problems and solutions to add to the list please feel free to comment.
Fuel Leak..... Uh Oh!!
So after the fuel pump issue was solved I thought all was well with the BMW. Little did I know...
When the mechanic fitted the fuel pump, he said it wasn't easy to seat properly.. He wasn't joking either!
On the way back home the other night we stopped off at a drive through. As we sat there we could smell fuel, but I assumed it was the car in front running (very) rich!
Then a worried head looked out the window and said "oi mate there's petrol coming from the back!".
At this point I looked out the window to see my fuel running past my door on the floor... Bugger!
I pulled into the car park and took a look under the car. Sure enough the bottom of the fuel tank was wet with petrol.
I checked the petrol cap to see if it was lose or not fitted right. It seemed OK though which was weird. I started her up and checked underneath. The leak appeared to of stopped. So I took her home again (not a long trip) to investigate.
I pulled up the back seat and took off the hatch above the fuel tank.
Low and behold there was a pool of petrol sat around the top of the tank. I mopped it up and dried it off.
Then I checked the seating of the fuel pump securing ring. It was not secure at all!
So I loosened it and tightened it back on to the fuel tank. It was better than before, not 100%, but better.
There was only one thing to do, get a new ring and gasket. So off to trusty Sytner BMW to get the bits. Gave all the details to them, E36, 1992, 320. Got a call from sytner to say they were in. Picked them up.
Booked her into the garage and waited for the call to say it was done (or that they had found a problem... a mouse in the tank or something similar!).
However, all was fine. The only issue was that the ring supplied by BMW sytner was too small. Not sure which car it was meant for.... but it wasn't this one!!
Oh well the gasket was fine, and this was the issue anyway. So all is back to normal.
This really emphasises the fact you need to replace the sealing ring gasket when changing the pump!
When the mechanic fitted the fuel pump, he said it wasn't easy to seat properly.. He wasn't joking either!
On the way back home the other night we stopped off at a drive through. As we sat there we could smell fuel, but I assumed it was the car in front running (very) rich!
Then a worried head looked out the window and said "oi mate there's petrol coming from the back!".
At this point I looked out the window to see my fuel running past my door on the floor... Bugger!
I pulled into the car park and took a look under the car. Sure enough the bottom of the fuel tank was wet with petrol.
I checked the petrol cap to see if it was lose or not fitted right. It seemed OK though which was weird. I started her up and checked underneath. The leak appeared to of stopped. So I took her home again (not a long trip) to investigate.
I pulled up the back seat and took off the hatch above the fuel tank.
Low and behold there was a pool of petrol sat around the top of the tank. I mopped it up and dried it off.
Then I checked the seating of the fuel pump securing ring. It was not secure at all!
So I loosened it and tightened it back on to the fuel tank. It was better than before, not 100%, but better.
There was only one thing to do, get a new ring and gasket. So off to trusty Sytner BMW to get the bits. Gave all the details to them, E36, 1992, 320. Got a call from sytner to say they were in. Picked them up.
Booked her into the garage and waited for the call to say it was done (or that they had found a problem... a mouse in the tank or something similar!).
However, all was fine. The only issue was that the ring supplied by BMW sytner was too small. Not sure which car it was meant for.... but it wasn't this one!!
Oh well the gasket was fine, and this was the issue anyway. So all is back to normal.
This really emphasises the fact you need to replace the sealing ring gasket when changing the pump!
Car heart-attack
Another day another dollar is the phrase people use. I use, another month another monkey!
This time round it's the heart of the car to go caput, the fuel pump.
Typically its one of those things that doesn't give out a warning to say it's having an attack!
So it is a cold night just about to go home, we load up the car and go to start it. It turns over but doesn't fire. I have a look under the bonnet at the fuse box and the pump fuse looks in good shape. As do all the other fuses....
Once again, it’s another call to the trusty RAC. After a quick inspection it turns out to be the pump. They tried the old trick of hitting it with a rubber mallet, still no joy. Off home we go being towed. Before getting it replaced I though I'd double check the connections at the pump end to make sure it was getting the relevant voltage.
Out comes the trusty multi-meter, low and behold there is about 11V across the pump end. So it looks to be the pump.
A visit to trusty GSF car parts in Sheffield and £98 lighter we have our shiny new pump.
Being petrol related and not wanting to make a mushroom cloud over South Yorkshire I opted to get a mobile mechanic out to fit the thing. All went to plan and an hour later she's up and running.
This time round it's the heart of the car to go caput, the fuel pump.
Typically its one of those things that doesn't give out a warning to say it's having an attack!
So it is a cold night just about to go home, we load up the car and go to start it. It turns over but doesn't fire. I have a look under the bonnet at the fuse box and the pump fuse looks in good shape. As do all the other fuses....
Once again, it’s another call to the trusty RAC. After a quick inspection it turns out to be the pump. They tried the old trick of hitting it with a rubber mallet, still no joy. Off home we go being towed. Before getting it replaced I though I'd double check the connections at the pump end to make sure it was getting the relevant voltage.
Out comes the trusty multi-meter, low and behold there is about 11V across the pump end. So it looks to be the pump.
A visit to trusty GSF car parts in Sheffield and £98 lighter we have our shiny new pump.
Being petrol related and not wanting to make a mushroom cloud over South Yorkshire I opted to get a mobile mechanic out to fit the thing. All went to plan and an hour later she's up and running.
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